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Params: post, 40230, a:8:{i:0;s:1814:"最近网上热传一张红烧肉的照片。烧肉的和吃肉的现在都成了坊间热议的人物，就连照片上那锅炖得不怎么正宗的红烧肉，也引起了大家的议论。总该有个人义勇地站出来说：“劳驾，我们从小吃到大的家常红烧肉真不是长这样的。”倒不是对烧肉人的苛求，只是这再普通不过的家常菜，离开了“家”这个烧肉的场所，偏离了给“家人”烧来吃的心意，怕真就变了味道。
红烧肉是最常见的家常食物了，每家都会烧。我记忆里的红烧肉有好几种形态。首先一种肯定是刚做好的，肥瘦相间的一碗。冒尖儿带着热气颤颤悠悠上桌。但见汁浓色重，肉皮泛着诱人的柔光。另一种形态就是冬天做好的红烧肉，放在院子里的石头桌上，上面扣好一个大盆。冰天雪地里，红烧肉隔夜变身。翌日打开大盆一看，碗面上凝固着一层不薄不厚的乳白色油膏。一块块红烧肉，凹凸有致地埋在白色油膏下，俯瞰起来还真有点水墨画的意思。过了一夜，红烧肉更加入味，有时候顾不得等着热开，用筷子扒拉出一块。肉四周还挂有些许肉冻。这个时候一口吃下去，真是酣畅过瘾。第三种形态就是以红烧肉为主，和各种搭配辅料炖出的烩菜，这也是我最爱吃红烧肉的原因。头天炖好的肉放上鸡蛋做元宝蛋，放上大白菜、百叶结、干扁豆或者粗粉条，就是有荤有素，味道合口的红烧肉衍生菜。素菜这么一做，都摇身一变，美味翻番儿了。也只有这个时候，大家都会抢着吃里面入足味的素菜，而暂时顾不上红烧肉本身了。
这么家常的红烧肉，真要做的好吃，也要讲究选料和烹调手法。
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猪的一身都可入菜，猪肉不同部位，做法也繁多且不同。《礼记·内则》中就说：“猪‘刚鬣’则肥健”。说的就是好猪肉要选鬃毛硬挺的。这样的猪，周身肉质鲜美。猪肉切件，肥瘦相间的，就是肌间脂肪多，肉中“呈味”物质也就多，用这样的猪肉作出的菜肴，口味醇厚。“后臀尖”，后腿肉”都属这类。
我做红烧肉，都会不费周折的搭配五花肉和前腿肉同时炖。五花肉是五花肋条上剔下来的不带骨头的方肉。五花肉又分为“硬五花（硬肋）”和“软五花（软肋）”。美好的一条五花肉，肥瘦相间有致，间隔排列开来。民间称作“五花三层”。前腿肉的挟下部位又俗称“不见天” （也有一说，“不见天”是猪后腿内侧的肉），多形象的名字。这块前腿内侧的肉虽然见不到光，但因运动充足得以肥瘦相宜，是块俗称的“活肉”。五花肉和前腿肉各取一半。切成大块。对，一定得是大块。这样炖出来的肉，不但吃得过瘾，而且不柴。相当适口。
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";i:5;a:4:{s:3:"tag";s:4:"size";s:6:"option";s:4:"14px";s:8:"original";a:2:{i:0;s:11:"[SIZE=14px]";i:1;s:7:"[/SIZE]";}s:8:"children";a:1:{i:0;a:4:{s:3:"tag";s:4:"font";s:6:"option";s:9:"Helvetica";s:8:"original";a:2:{i:0;s:16:"[FONT=Helvetica]";i:1;s:7:"[/FONT]";}s:8:"children";a:1:{i:0;a:4:{s:3:"tag";s:5:"color";s:6:"option";s:7:"#333333";s:8:"original";a:2:{i:0;s:15:"[COLOR=#333333]";i:1;s:8:"[/COLOR]";}s:8:"children";a:1:{i:0;s:1001:"我奶奶出生在苏州大户人家，家中珍馐筵席常有，她自己也会吃善做。她的一个个拿手菜，光是菜名说出来，都已经让人垂涎。得到她老人家真传的苏式红烧肉，尝过的没有不称绝的。提到这个苏式红烧肉的秘诀，真的一点就透。那就是“吃肉的原味”。我从小就记得家里人对红烧肉时“炒糖色”的作法最看不上眼。因为炒糖色既是为了给肉挂上色，也是防止肥肉部分在后续的制作过程中“跑油”而使肉块由大变小。过去穷人家吃上一顿肉不易，所以炒糖色的同时，还恨不得用足八角花椒茴香葱姜蒜，其实都是为了人为地给猪肉加味。这样，吃上一块两块的，就顶住了，想来这些画蛇添足的作法也真是窘迫生活的不得已而为之。在我奶奶看来，这种作法实在对不住自己，也更不能继承先人“烹调”的真意——所谓 “无味乃有味之始”， 原味最美。";}}}}}}i:6;s:1:"
";i:7;a:4:{s:3:"tag";s:5:"color";s:6:"option";s:7:"#333333";s:8:"original";a:2:{i:0;s:15:"[COLOR=#333333]";i:1;s:8:"[/COLOR]";}s:8:"children";a:1:{i:0;a:4:{s:3:"tag";s:4:"size";s:6:"option";s:4:"14px";s:8:"original";a:2:{i:0;s:11:"[SIZE=14px]";i:1;s:7:"[/SIZE]";}s:8:"children";a:1:{i:0;a:4:{s:3:"tag";s:4:"font";s:6:"option";s:9:"Helvetica";s:8:"original";a:2:{i:0;s:16:"[FONT=Helvetica]";i:1;s:7:"[/FONT]";}s:8:"children";a:10:{i:0;s:898:"历史上有过用不同烹调方法做出的红烧肉，最早的在南北朝时就有了。《齐民要术》中记载了一个叫“奥肉”的食谱。就是肉斩件，先炒，再加猪油，酒和盐慢火煮好。然后放入瓮中，浸以猪油。吃的时候再取肉煮食。明清时的《调鼎集》里也提到过一道“灯灯肉”，也是大块猪肉入锅，加水及调味料，密封锅盖后，先用大火烧开，再撤去火，改用油灯一盏对准锅脐烧，烧上一夜至酥烂。
在美食历史和家常味觉记忆中，都占了一席重位的红烧肉，其实烹调起来相当简单。今天就和大家分享我家苏式红烧肉的做法。调味只用生抽（咸味）、老抽（上色）、姜片（去腥）、绍酒（去腥提鲜）和冰糖（提鲜增亮）。上好的猪肉，就要吃原味。至简调味，为的是一享至美真味。
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";i:3;a:4:{s:3:"tag";s:1:"b";s:6:"option";N;s:8:"original";a:2:{i:0;s:3:"[B]";i:1;s:4:"[/B]";}s:8:"children";a:1:{i:0;s:9:"原料：";}}i:4;s:446:"
1. 猪五花肉一斤半，猪前腿（或后腿）肉一斤半；
2. 生抽4勺（喝汤用的勺子），老抽4勺，也可根据个人口味适当增减；
3. 姜4至5片；
4. 绍酒4勺；
5. 冰糖100-150克（冰糖用刀背或者擀面棍敲成小块。苏式红烧肉偏甜，这里冰糖用量可以根据个人喜好增减）；
6. 一滴滴香醋。
7. 开水（一定要加入开水，开水的量以没过肉4-5厘米为佳）。
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1. 猪肉切大块（3.5厘米见方最好），浸在冷水里15-20分钟，以便“拔”出血水。拔好的猪肉，沥水待用；
2. 炒锅烧热，放一小茶匙食用油。炒香姜片后，放入肉块，不断煸炒，同时淋入“一滴滴”醋。翻炒直至肉块变色。这个时候放入老抽、生抽、绍酒，再继续煸炒2分钟左右；
3. 肉块均匀挂上调料后，加入开水。切记一定用开水，而且一次加足水！ 水需没过肉块4-5厘米，盖盖儿，大火煮开。煮开后，转小火慢炖。此间不要开盖，用小火慢慢炖上2个小时再一刻钟。此时开盖，加入冰糖收汁。这里有两种收汁方法。第一种：加入冰糖后可以再盖上盖子，转中火收汁一刻钟；第二种：加入冰糖后可以打开盖子，转大火，不断把渐浓稠的汤汁，翻炒到肉上，即为“收汁”。用筷子插入一块肉里，一下插进去，而且肉有软且弹的感觉，那就大功告成了。
*上期我的文章“小面团的大世界”正好介绍了做馍的良方。就用这个馍，中间横切一刀，配上红烧肉（夹进馍之前，一定用叉子将肉块搅碎些），再来点香菜和尖椒。苏式红烧肉配上陕北的馍，出彩好吃！
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